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A good jigsaw helps you cut curves, openings and shorter shaped cuts in materials approved for the tool and blade. The best choice depends on grip, speed control, blade compatibility and whether you already own suitable batteries. A higher speed number alone does not guarantee a cleaner edge or a square cut.
This 2026 guide compares ten specific models for US readers. The Bosch JS470E is our corded starting point, the DeWalt DCS334B is a practical cordless comparison for existing DeWalt owners, and the SKIL JS314901 is worth considering for occasional corded DIY work. The remaining picks address different grip and battery-platform preferences.
How to read our picks: These are researched editorial recommendations based on manufacturer documentation and intended use. We have not run a side-by-side workshop test or measured comparative accuracy, runtime or durability. Match the exact saw, blade and supplied manual to your project.
Best jigsaws at a glance
- Corded top handle: Start with Bosch JS470E; compare Makita 4350FCT and DeWalt DW331K.
- Cordless top handle: Compare DeWalt DCS334B, Makita XVJ04Z and CRAFTSMAN CMCS650B according to your existing batteries.
- Corded barrel grip: Compare Bosch JS470EB and Makita 4351FCT.
- Cordless barrel grip: DeWalt DCS335B is the platform-specific option here.
- Occasional corded DIY: Compare SKIL JS314901 before investing in batteries.
On a phone, swipe the comparison table sideways to see every column.
| Model | Power | Grip | No-load speed (SPM) | Blade shank |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bosch JS470E | 7-amp corded | Top handle | 500–3,100 | T-shank |
| DeWalt DCS334B | 20V MAX cordless | Top handle | Up to 3,200 | T-shank |
| Makita XVJ04Z | 18V LXT cordless | Top handle | 0–3,000 | T-shank |
| Bosch JS470EB | 7-amp corded | Barrel grip | 500–3,100 | T-shank |
| DeWalt DCS335B | 20V MAX cordless | Barrel grip | Up to 3,200 | T-shank |
| Makita 4350FCT | 6.3-amp corded | Top handle | 800–2,800 | T-shank |
| Makita 4351FCT | 6.3-amp corded | Barrel grip | 800–2,800 | T-shank |
| SKIL JS314901 | 6-amp / 120V corded | Top handle | 800–3,200 | T- and U-shank |
| CRAFTSMAN CMCS650B | V20 cordless | Top handle | Up to 3,200 | T- and U-shank |
| DeWalt DW331K | 6.5-amp corded | Top handle | 500–3,100 | T-shank |
Manufacturer speed specifications are not comparative cutting-speed measurements. Cordless B and Z packages linked here exclude batteries and chargers. Confirm the exact listing and package before ordering.
Best jigsaw reviews: ten models compared
1. Bosch JS470E — Best corded starting point
The JS470E offers a 7-amp corded motor, a 1-inch stroke and a 500–3,100-SPM no-load range. Bosch documents a maximum-speed dial, accelerator trigger, four orbital-action settings and a switchable dust blower. Its T-shank clamp includes a blade-ejection lever, and the listed package includes a case, overshoe, anti-splinter insert, blade and bevel wrench.
We would start here for regular work near an outlet when you want a conventional top handle and do not need another battery system. The dial-and-trigger arrangement gives two useful ways to manage speed. The included surface-protection accessories are relevant to finished panels, although the right blade and a trial cut still matter.
It is not a guaranteed straight-cut solution for thick timber. Bosch's online capacity table and downloadable manual list different maximum material figures, so confirm the instructions for your exact tool rather than treating the largest advertised number as a buying target. Cord routing and blade choice remain part of the working setup. Compare the JS470EB if you prefer a barrel grip instead of this trigger-controlled top handle.
- Why consider it: Dial plus trigger; useful listed accessory package.
- Trade-off: Cord management; confirm the exact manual limits.
2. DeWalt DCS334B — Best cordless starting point for DeWalt owners
The brushless DCS334B has a top handle, variable-speed trigger and dial, four-position orbital action, LED and dust blower. DeWalt documents a tool-free T-shank clamp and a keyless bevel shoe with detents at 0, 15 and 30 degrees and a 45-degree stop. A removable shoe cover protects suitable finished surfaces. Battery and charger are separate.
Its strongest buying case is an existing compatible DeWalt setup. For room-to-room installation work, removing the cord can make positioning easier. A trigger also gives a familiar way to start a cut at a controlled pace. We would compare the complete battery-equipped package against a corded alternative if you are starting from zero.
The tool-only price does not represent a complete working system. Battery size changes handling and access, and no-load speed is not proof of a faster or cleaner cut. We have not measured runtime against competitors. If a barrel grip suits your hands better, the DCS335B is the relevant alternative within the same platform. For straight sheet cuts, consider the appropriate circular saw and guide instead of expecting a jigsaw to replace every cutting tool.
- Why consider it: Cordless convenience with trigger and dial.
- Trade-off: Battery and charger extra; assess installed-battery handling.
3. Makita XVJ04Z — Best brushless LXT upgrade candidate
Makita's XVJ04Z is a brushless 18V LXT top-handle jigsaw with a 7/8-inch stroke and 0–3,000-SPM range. Documented features include a speed dial, variable trigger, straight cutting plus three orbital settings, LED, soft start and a soft no-load mode. The Z package excludes battery and charger and lists three blades.
We would compare it when upgrading an existing LXT workshop rather than automatically buying an older brushed model. The speed and start-up controls are useful features to assess for your material and preferred cutting method. Their practical effect depends on setup and blade selection; they are not independent evidence of a better finished edge.
Try the grip and control arrangement if possible. The no-load behavior can feel different from a saw that immediately runs at the selected cutting speed. Include a compatible battery in handling and price comparisons. For a shop with reliable outlets and no LXT batteries, the corded 4350FCT may be a simpler purchase. Choose the platform advantage because it fits your tools, not because a voltage label promises superior cutting.
- Why consider it: Brushless LXT model with several speed controls.
- Trade-off: Battery cost and soft no-load behavior to consider.
4. Bosch JS470EB — Best corded barrel-grip starting point
The JS470EB is Bosch's 7-amp barrel-grip option with a 1-inch stroke, variable-speed dial, four orbital-action settings and switchable dust blower. Its documented features include a counterbalanced mechanism, T-shank clamp and blade-ejection lever. The package lists a non-marring overshoe, anti-splinter insert, blade, wrench and case.
The reason to select it over the JS470E is the grip and control layout. A barrel grip puts the hand closer to the body of the saw, which some readers prefer for following curves. That preference is personal; it does not make the format universally more precise. Check how easily you can reach the switch and maintain the required hand positions.
This model uses its dial to set operating speed rather than the JS470E's accelerator-trigger arrangement. If you strongly prefer trigger control, choose the top-handle alternative. Confirm maximum material capacities in the exact supplied manual because Bosch's online and manual figures differ. The linked listing is the JS470EB, not the top-handle E model or a similarly named cordless tool. Verify seller condition and accessories before ordering.
- Why consider it: Barrel grip with blade ejection and listed case.
- Trade-off: Grip and switch preference; exact manual capacity check.
5. DeWalt DCS335B — Best cordless DeWalt barrel-grip option
The DCS335B combines a brushless motor, barrel grip and speed dial with four-position orbital action. DeWalt lists an LED, dust blower, tool-free T-shank clamp, keyless bevel shoe and protective shoe cover. It shares the 20V MAX platform with the DCS334B, but battery and charger are excluded from this B package.
Choose it when you already own suitable DeWalt batteries and prefer the barrel layout. The hand position and switch arrangement are the key buying differences. Examine them before deciding that the two models are interchangeable. The DCS334B remains the more relevant comparison for readers who want conventional trigger control.
We do not rank the DCS335B above the top-handle model for every task. Grip size, installed battery, visibility and your approach to a curve all affect comfort. Check the exact manual and avoid relying on generic listing text that mixes controls from both models. A cordless barrel saw can be convenient for installation, but it still needs secure workholding and a blade suited to the material. Budget the entire system if you are new to the platform.
- Why consider it: Cordless barrel layout within an existing DeWalt system.
- Trade-off: Different controls from DCS334B; batteries extra.
6. Makita 4350FCT — Best corded Makita top-handle option
The 4350FCT has a 6.3-amp motor, 1-inch stroke, electronic speed control and an 800–2,800-SPM dial range. Makita documents straight cutting plus three orbital settings, soft start, LED, dust blower and tool-free T-shank blade changes. The package lists six blades, an anti-splintering insert, cover plate, hex wrench and case.
We would compare it for a workshop where corded ownership is convenient and the top handle suits your grip. The accessory package is useful to evaluate alongside the saw price, especially if you are starting with few blades. Check whether those included blades match your project rather than assuming an assortment covers every material.
Bevel adjustment uses the onboard hex wrench, which is a practical difference from a keyless shoe. Dust extraction requires compatible optional accessories and a suitable vacuum setup; a blower alone is not collection. Makita publishes comparative vibration and noise marketing claims, but we have not independently measured them. Compare the 4351FCT if you prefer a barrel grip, and choose between them around handling and controls rather than the shared motor rating.
- Why consider it: Electronic speed control and substantial listed accessories.
- Trade-off: Wrench-based bevel adjustment; extraction accessories separate.
7. Makita 4351FCT — Alternative corded barrel-grip package
The 4351FCT uses a barrel-grip body with a 6.3-amp motor, 1-inch stroke and 800–2,800-SPM speed dial. Its documented features include LED, soft start, electronic speed control, straight cutting plus three orbital settings and tool-free T-shank blade changes. Makita lists six blades, anti-splintering insert, cover plate, wrench and case.
Its buying case is the lower hand position and a corded setup. For buyers comparing barrel saws, examine it beside the Bosch JS470EB. Look at the body diameter, control reach, shoe adjustment and how you can see the marked line. A specification table cannot tell you which grip fits your hands better.
The key trade-off is control preference. If a variable trigger on a top handle feels more natural, a different layout may be easier to use. The bevel setting also needs the supplied hex wrench. We do not repeat the manufacturer's comparative vibration claim as a measured result from our own testing. This is a distinct handling choice, not a reason to buy both Makita corded models for an ordinary home workshop.
- Why consider it: Corded barrel format with LED and listed case.
- Trade-off: Grip preference and wrench-based shoe adjustment.
8. SKIL JS314901 — Best basic corded DIY starting point
The JS314901 is a 6-amp corded jigsaw with four orbital settings, a variable-speed trigger, tool-free blade changes, tool-free shoe bevel adjustment, switchable dust blower and Halo Light. SKIL's US manual lists a 7/8-inch stroke and 800–3,200-SPM range. The package includes one wood blade and one metal blade.
We would start here for occasional DIY work when a cord is acceptable and you want useful adjustments without buying batteries. The practical appeal is the combination of basic controls, work light and a simple initial package. Compare its current total price with other corded options; an editorial value pick is not a promise that it is always the cheapest listing.
Do not confuse its feature list with evidence of the same sustained performance as every heavier workshop saw. We have not tested durability or cut accuracy side by side. SKIL's webpage and manual differ on one metal-capacity figure, so use the limits for your exact tool rather than the larger online value. Choose project-specific blades and practice on scrap before cutting finished pieces.
- Why consider it: Useful DIY controls without battery-system cost.
- Trade-off: Confirm manual limits; no independent durability comparison.
9. CRAFTSMAN CMCS650B — Best brushless V20 upgrade candidate
The CMCS650B is a brushless V20 RP jigsaw with a variable trigger, three orbital settings, beveling shoe up to 45 degrees, LED and dust blower. CRAFTSMAN specifies up to 3,200 no-load strokes per minute and compatibility with both T- and U-shank blades. The B package contains the saw and a wood blade; battery and charger are separate.
It is most relevant to readers with compatible V20 batteries. You can add a brushless jigsaw without maintaining another charging system. The blade-shank flexibility is a documented difference from models that accept only T-shank blades, but it is not a reason to use an unsuitable blade or keep worn accessories.
Compare the complete working setup with the older CMCS600B rather than assuming both models have the same motor and lighting features. Check grip, shoe adjustment and battery clearance against your intended work. We have not measured the brand's runtime claims, so this recommendation is based on platform fit and documented features. Starting from no batteries, a corded saw may remain the more economical route for occasional cutting near an outlet.
- Why consider it: Brushless upgrade for existing V20 owners.
- Trade-off: Bare-tool package; compare full system cost.
10. DeWalt DW331K — Alternative corded top-handle package
The DW331K is DeWalt's corded 6.5-amp top-handle jigsaw package. Documented features include a 500–3,100-SPM variable-speed range, keyless blade clamp, four-position orbital action, bevel detents, dust blower and non-marring shoe cover. It accepts T-shank blades. The manufacturer lists a kit box and anti-splinter base with the saw.
We would compare it when you prefer DeWalt's corded layout and want a case-based package. It is a different ownership choice from the cordless DCS334B: there are no battery or charger purchases, but you need a suitable outlet and sensible cord routing. Check which blades are included in the specific offer.
Pay particular attention to the electrical variant. DeWalt's US-facing webpage currently displays a 230-volt specification even though US-market listings describe a corded 6.5-amp package. Confirm the seller's actual tool rating, plug and intended US-market version before ordering; do not assume a shared model name guarantees the right voltage. We avoid publishing that inconsistent webpage voltage as a US specification. If the seller cannot clarify the package, choose a clearly documented compatible alternative.
- Why consider it: Corded DeWalt layout and listed storage kit.
- Trade-off: Verify US electrical variant and actual package contents.
How to choose the best jigsaw for your work
Corded or cordless: compare complete ownership cost
A corded saw is a practical choice for a bench or room with accessible power. There are no batteries to charge or replace, and occasional users can avoid buying a separate platform. The trade-off is cord routing around clamps, sheet edges and the work area. Confirm the correct US electrical rating and follow the tool’s extension-cord requirements.
Cordless is useful for installation work and moving between locations. It makes most financial sense when you already own compatible packs and a charger. Add those costs when comparing a bare tool with a corded kit. Consider the working weight and access with a battery installed, rather than comparing bare-tool figures against a ready-to-use corded saw.
Voltage labels are not a cross-brand cutting-performance ranking. Maximum initial and nominal voltage descriptions can differ. More useful questions are whether the pack is approved for the tool, whether the controls suit your task and whether the complete purchase fits your budget.
Top handle versus barrel grip
A top handle gives a familiar raised grip and often an accelerator trigger. That can be useful for gradually starting a cut and changing speed as you work. A barrel grip places the hand around the lower body and commonly uses a separate switch and speed dial. Some readers prefer that position when following curves.
Neither style is automatically more accurate. Hand size, switch reach, line visibility and the exact saw’s balance matter. Try the grip if you can. Consider gloves only as permitted for the task and tool; avoid anything that reduces control or can catch. Follow the required hand positions, and do not adopt an inverted cutting technique just because a marketing image or online video shows one.
Speed control and orbital action
A speed dial can set an operating range, while a variable trigger may provide further control within it. Check how the exact model combines those controls. Match speed to the material and blade instructions. The maximum no-load SPM figure says how fast the mechanism moves without a cut; it does not measure feed rate or finished quality.
Orbital action changes the blade’s movement to make suitable rough cuts more aggressive. Lower or zero orbital action is often the starting point for tighter curves, finer edges and applications where the manual calls for straight action. Use the tool’s settings chart rather than one universal recommendation for wood, metal and plastic.
Shoe adjustment, surface protection and visibility
Check whether the shoe bevel needs a wrench or has a keyless lever. A tool-free adjustment can be convenient, but either arrangement must lock securely. Verify the shoe against the blade after adjustment instead of assuming a detent guarantees the finished angle. Test an angled cut on scrap before cutting the final piece.
A clean overshoe can help protect a finished panel from scratches. An anti-splinter insert can reduce breakout in compatible cuts, but blade type and feed still matter. LEDs and blowers improve visibility; a blower disperses debris and does not collect it. If dust extraction matters, check the actual port, required adapter and suitable collection system.
Capacity is a limit, not a finish-quality promise
Published maximum thickness describes an approved application under specified conditions. It does not guarantee that a long flexible blade will stay square in thick hardwood. A deep curved cut can wander below the surface even when the top follows your pencil line. Use the exact manual’s limits and inspect the result on scrap.
Where manufacturer pages and manuals disagree, confirm the supplied instructions or ask the manufacturer. This guide avoids ranking saws by the largest inconsistent capacity number. For thick stock requiring a reliably square shaped cut, an appropriate bandsaw or another cutting process may suit the job better.
Jigsaw blade buying guide
Start with shank compatibility
The clamp must accept the blade’s shank. Most models here specify T-shank blades; the SKIL and CRAFTSMAN examples also document U-shank compatibility. Do not assume every quick-release clamp accepts both. With power disconnected or the battery removed, install the blade as instructed and confirm that it is properly seated.
Match tooth form, width and length to the cut
Use a blade rated for the material. A general wood blade, a fine laminate blade and a metal-cutting blade serve different jobs. Narrow scrolling blades can turn tighter curves, while a more rigid blade may be preferable for a straighter cut. The blade must remain long enough to clear the work throughout its stroke without striking anything underneath.
Fine teeth can help with certain finishes, but tooth count alone does not determine the result. Tooth direction, blade stiffness, material thickness and feed rate also matter. Reverse-tooth and specialized laminate blades can change the cutting forces and required technique. Follow the blade and saw instructions and test the combination before using it on an expensive finished surface.
Plan visible surfaces and spare blades
Consider where the teeth exit the surface and where breakout would be unacceptable. Choose the appropriate blade and orient the work only as permitted by the cutting setup. A sacrificial backing or compatible anti-splinter insert may help in suitable applications. Keep spare blades because forcing a worn or bent blade usually creates more trouble than replacing it.
For plastic, the wrong speed or feed can generate heat and a poor edge. For metal, choose the specified blade, workholding and any lubricant allowed by the manufacturer. Do not treat a broad claim that a jigsaw cuts many materials as permission to cut an unknown or unsupported material.
Practical tips for cleaner curves and straighter cuts
Secure the work and clear the blade path
Clamp the work to a stable support and allow sufficient clearance under the entire cut. Check for fasteners, wiring and other hazards before cutting installed material. Keep the cord, battery and clamps from interfering with travel. Never use your free hand beneath the board as a substitute for proper support.
Mark the line and account for the blade kerf. Keep the shoe supported as instructed, start with an appropriate controlled speed and let the blade do the cutting. Forcing the saw sideways to correct a curve can bend the blade and leave a cut that looks acceptable on top but slopes underneath.
Reduce blade deflection
A sharp, suitable blade and steady feed are the first checks when the cut wanders. Reduce pressure, inspect blade seating and confirm the shoe setting. Use a blade with the stiffness appropriate to the task. A fence may guide the saw body but cannot guarantee that a flexible blade stays vertical below the surface.
For tight curves, plan the path instead of forcing a turn beyond the blade’s ability. Use relief cuts or a suitable entry hole only where the manual and project permit them. Do not plunge into material with an unapproved blade or technique. Stop the saw before repositioning or clearing a piece.
Choose another saw for long straight sheet cuts
A jigsaw can make useful short straight cuts, but it is primarily attractive for shapes and openings. For a long plywood rip where straightness is critical, compare a suitable circular saw or track-guided setup. Our circular saw buying guide explains those options.
For rough demolition, a reciprocating saw has a different purpose and handling layout. Read our reciprocating saw guide before buying a jigsaw for teardown work. Matching the tool to the job is more useful than expecting one saw to cover every cut.
Before operating: Read the exact tool and blade instructions. Use the specified protective equipment and dust controls. Keep hands clear of the blade above and below the work, and disconnect power before blade changes or adjustments. Blades and freshly cut metal can remain hot after stopping.
Jigsaw maintenance and storage tips
Unplug the tool or remove the battery before cleaning, changing blades or inspecting the clamp. Clear debris from the shoe, blade holder and roller guide using the method the manual permits. Do not direct liquids into the tool or use aggressive cleaning methods around electrical components.
Inspect blades for bent bodies, missing teeth, wear and damaged shanks. Replace damaged blades. Check that the clamp holds the blade securely and that the roller guide and shoe are in good condition. A loose blade or shoe is a reason to stop and resolve the problem, not compensate with more feed pressure.
Keep ventilation openings clear and follow the manufacturer’s lubrication and service instructions. Some tasks belong with an authorized service provider. Inspect cords and plugs on corded models, and maintain cordless packs and chargers according to their separate instructions. Store the tool dry, with blades protected and accessories together.
Frequently asked questions about jigsaws
What is the best jigsaw for a beginner?
For occasional work near an outlet, compare the SKIL JS314901’s controls and complete price. For more regular corded use, the Bosch JS470E is our starting point. Existing compatible batteries can make a cordless model practical. A comfortable grip, suitable blade and scrap practice matter more than the beginner label.
Is a barrel-grip jigsaw better than a top-handle model?
It depends on your hands and preferred controls. A barrel grip offers a lower hand position; a top handle commonly gives convenient trigger control. Compare the exact switch arrangement and balance before choosing. We have not measured either format as universally more accurate.
Why does my jigsaw blade bend or cut at an angle?
Common things to check include an unsuitable or worn blade, excessive feed pressure, tight turns, incorrect blade seating and shoe alignment. Disconnect power before inspection. A thin blade can deflect in thick material even if the saw body follows a straight guide.
Should orbital action be on for every cut?
No. Use the settings recommended for your material, blade and desired finish. Straight action or a lower setting may suit finer edges and tighter curves, while a higher setting can suit some rough wood cuts. The manual’s application chart is the appropriate starting point.
Can a jigsaw cut laminate, metal or plastic?
Some models and blades support those applications within specified limits. Check the exact material, thickness, blade and required setup. Test on scrap, especially for finished laminate or heat-sensitive plastic. Do not infer approval from a generic versatile-tool description.
Will a dust blower replace dust extraction?
No. A blower moves debris away from the line; extraction collects it through a compatible system. Check the port, adapters and dust-control requirements for your material. Some extraction accessories are separate purchases.
Does a tool-only listing include a battery?
The cordless B and Z listings selected here exclude battery and charger. Bundles can differ, so read the exact offer and included-items section. Check compatibility, seller condition and warranty eligibility before comparing the total cost.
Which jigsaw should you buy?
Start with the Bosch JS470E if you want a regular-use corded top-handle saw. Compare the SKIL JS314901 for occasional DIY work. If you already own DeWalt batteries, the DCS334B is the top-handle cordless option to inspect first. LXT and V20 owners should compare the corresponding brushless models before adding another platform.
Choose a barrel-grip model only when its handling and controls suit you. Before ordering, confirm the exact model, US electrical version where applicable, included accessories, compatible blades and complete working-system cost.
How we researched this guide
We checked current manufacturer features, published package information and official manuals, then matched the ten linked models to Amazon US listings. The guide separates manufacturer specifications from editorial buying judgments. It does not contain fabricated hands-on tests, star ratings or claims of measured superiority.
Sources are linked beside each review. Additional operating references: Bosch JS470E/JS470EB manual, DeWalt DCS334/DCS335 manual and SKIL JS314901 US manual. Follow the manual supplied with your exact tool.